中国能否出品世界顶级佳酿？

中国能否出品世界顶级佳酿？——FT Asia & Jade Vineyard CEO Dinner was successfully held

10月26日晚，FT Asia & Jade Vineyard CEO Dinner在香港置地文化酒店圆满举行。活动邀请了亚太区金融界高管出席，并邀请了数位葡萄酒国际专业人士与大家品鉴、分享佳酿。美好的夜晚，怡人的氛围，九款佳酿搭配珍馐次第呈现，现场光彩照人。

嘉地酒园 Jade Vineyard，寓意一块美玉，坐落于贺兰山东麓，作为一家中国新兴精品酒庄，嘉地酒园始终抱持“用国际视野，做中国好酒”的理想，努力向葡萄酒新旧世界学习，尊重自然，呈现中国风土。

此次CEO 晚宴亦作为嘉地酒园“Demo Tasting”，选在葡萄酒最普及、饮酒历史已有一百余年的香港，参加晚宴的朋友们都是具有良好葡萄酒教育及丰富饮酒经验的酒客。

鸡尾酒会时间，以嘉地酒园风信子桃红2015的果香、甜美，愉悦开场。晚宴以唐培里侬2006年份香槟开始，以滴金1986收尾。中间六款干红葡萄酒，其中嘉地酒款混合新旧世界葡萄酒，采取盲品的方式，邀请在场嘉宾及专家进行点评，所有客人投票，最终公布结果。

此次活动特别邀请《葡萄酒评论》副主编Olivier Poels，现场邀请Olivier盲品点评了第一、二款酒。“我了解中国和中国葡萄酒是从七年前开始的，《葡萄酒评论》中国每年举办一场大型的中国葡萄酒品评赛，见证了中国葡萄酒在这七年间的变化。嘉地酒园在中国葡萄酒界打开了新的篇章。今天，我们非常幸运能有机会探索和品尝嘉地，能跟随这个品牌成长。我相信在不远的将来，我们今天在场的人能够很骄傲的说，我们在此见证了这个婴儿的降生。”

（三位大师的评价英文原文及中文翻译放在文末以供读者参阅。）

嘉里酒香集团及大中华区总经理Eric Degoutte，从侍酒师开始长期从事酒商工作。他有着被法国顶级佳酿Lafitte、Latour、Petrus甚至Romani Conti长期饮用养成的味蕾，同时是一个钟爱法国酒的、尽管彬彬有礼但是a little bit of Male chauvinism的男人，邀请他从一开始，就知道是一个风险。但是，嘉地酒园偏要邀请这位“刁钻”的大咖，对于一个一直不露面媒体的Eric实属难得。他是如此坦诚，喜欢就是喜欢，不喜欢绝不违心。

其间FT Asia CEO Angela做精彩发言：“……刚才我们看了嘉地酒园的视频短片，非常浪漫非常美，你看那风土，看那片葡萄园，是你在世界任何其他地方看不到的，你不禁会问，会畅想，他们到有怎样的历史和故事，会惊奇他们的未来。”

著名大提琴家、曾经的音乐神童朱亦兵朱老师应庄主之邀，在参加香港音乐节之前正好来到这次晚宴。因为中、英、法、德四种语言熟练转换，成为现场最受欢迎的来宾之一。在葡萄佳酿的感染下，这位艺术家也不再顾忌地毯吸音、环境音效如何，现场演奏了巴赫大提琴独奏曲及法国作曲家圣·桑的《天鹅》，可以听的精神饮品。

六款酒盲品结束，我们邀请了Jeannie Cho Lee MW，2008年获得MW，世界第一位亚裔MW葡萄酒大师、葡萄酒“女神”李至延进行点评。她是韩国人，从小移民到美国，出身优渥，哈佛大学硕士学位，美丽典雅。之前她在一次宴会上喝到过嘉地酒园的咏叹调2014，给予了极高评价，这一次只是和嘉地第一次见面。

Jeannie点评：“首先我要说，六款酒各具特色。最后两款（第5、6款）我认为最和谐，有着极高品质的单宁，有着更和谐的结构。第五款，我觉得稍微有一点点甜，更慷慨大方，骨架大，口感也更成熟。第六款酒更矜持内敛，更形象和具体地比喻，第六款更加优雅，就像奥黛丽赫本一样。

盲品酒款顺序揭晓：

1、嘉地酒园风信子干红2016

2、西施佳雅2013 RP97

3、嘉地酒园四季干红2015

4、嘉地酒园咏叹调干红2015

5、Opus one 2013 RP100

6、嘉地酒园信使干红2015

盲品结果揭晓：

嘉地酒园信使干红葡萄酒2015年份 ——19票 第一

美国纳帕谷Opus1 2013年份 ——16票 第二

意大利西施佳雅2013年份 ——15票 第三

也就是说，嘉地酒园信使2015干红葡萄酒赢得了第一，Opus1 2013罗伯特帕克评分100，西施佳雅2013罗伯特帕克评分97分，居第二和第三。嘉地酒园信使2015获得最高票选是众望所归，就连最“严苛”最“傲娇”、之前一直不起劲的Eric Degouttes 品完最后一款都兴奋地对我说：“哈！This one is very good!"

嘉地酒园香港Demo Tasting，在一片美好气氛中久久不能落幕，一一道别，一个美好的夜晚给宾客留下了深深的回忆。中国作为新兴葡萄酒产区，能否出品世界顶级佳酿呢？我们拭目以待。

PS:

Olivier Poels’s comments on the No.1 and No.2:

I know China and Chinese wines since 7 years. Because, maybe you know, we have a <> edition now in China and in Chinese. Each year, we organize a big Chinese wine tasting in Beijing. And it’s amazing to see all the Chinese wine industry has changed in 7 years. I must say that, during my first visit, I was a little bit disappointed drinking all those Chinese wines. It was the beginning of the story. And last year, during the tasting, I was really surprised by the quality of some of the wines. ….So Jade Vineyard is a young vineyard, it’s a young story in the wine industry. And as you know, making a wine takes time. So we have the chance to discover the young babies you produced, it’s always interesting to follow a story like that. And I’s sure in the future, in a few years, we will be proud to say, we were there at the beginning. And that’s very interesting.

So let talk now about this tasting and these wines, blind tasting is always a game, special game. We like it, of course. But it’s not really easy for us of course. We are in danger. I’m taking about wine tasting, one of the most famous French oenologist, used to say, in wine tasting, quick look at the label better than 20 years of experience. But I didn’t have the chance to have the quick look on the label. So a few of words about these 2 wines, quite different. As you can see, the first wine seems very young of course, in an elegant style. I like the freshness of the wine, the balance between good fruit and good acidity. It’s like what we can call classic wine. Not really powerful, more elegant than powerful. The second wine is really different. More structured, more modern style as you call. You feel the maturity of the grapes, you feel the oak, too….

Olivier对第1、2款评价：

我了解中国和中国葡萄酒是从七年前开始的。法国有一本杂志叫《法国葡萄酒评论》，现在也同时有了中国版。每一年我们在北京都举办一场大型的中国葡萄酒品评赛。令人开心的是这个比赛见证了中国葡萄酒在这七年间的变化。说实话，在我第一次来中国品鉴到这些中国葡萄酒的时候，我真的非常失望。这就是起初的故事。但是从去年的比赛开始，一部分中国酒的品质真是完全让我改观了对他们的认识。嘉地酒园是一个年轻的酒园，在葡萄酒界打开了新的篇章。大家都知道，做一款好酒需要时间。所以我们非常幸运去能有机会探索和品尝还在婴儿时期的嘉地，有意思的是我们能伴随这个故事。我相信在不远的将来，也许就几年时间，我们能够很骄傲的说我们从一开就了解嘉地，品鉴了嘉地。

我们开始说一下这两款酒，盲品是一个和特别的游戏。我们很喜欢，但是这对我们来说其实也不简单。曾经有个法国酿酒师说过，20年的品酒经验，不如快速的看一眼酒标，但是可惜的是我并没有机会看到今晚品鉴的酒的酒标。关于第一和第二款酒，非常的不同。如你们所品，第一款酒很年轻，是非常高雅的风格。我很喜欢这款的清新，果香和酸度的平衡。总结起来就是非常经典的一款。优雅感多于强劲。第二款酒非常的不同，更有结构，更偏向现代风格。你能品出来葡萄的成熟度，橡木风味...

Eric’s comments on the No.3 and No.4:

I’m not used to commenting when standing up. The fruity and acidity are well balanced, and not over matured. I’m not fond of over matured wines. They’re young and we can see their potentials. Let’s be patient and wait for their time.

Eric对第3、4款酒的评价：

站起身他有点羞涩地嘟囔了一句，“我不太习惯站起来发言”，接着说“果味和酸度的平衡非常好，而且不过熟，我不是很喜欢过熟的感觉；我们可以看到它们显然的潜力，但是他们还年轻，需要我们再耐心等待一段时间。”

Jeannie Cho LEE MW:

All six wines have their strengths. So if I may, I always like to see the glass have full rather than have empty. So I’m happy to talk about the strengths of each of the wines. But last two I found，to be the most harmonious, and to have the most wonderful texture of tannins. When I’m tasting red wines blind, what I really look for, it’s the quality and the texture of tannins. It’s like evaluating textiles: materiel you are feeling, the quality of the silk, of the cotton. Whatever materiel you are looking at, for me for red wines, the polyphenols, the tannin component is really at the core of assessing the quality. And the last two had finer tannins, had a much more harmonious structure. And No.5 had, I think, maybe a little bit more sweetness, and it had a little bit more generosity. While, wine No. 6 was more restrained, if I were to characterize and describe the wines, 6 was a little bit more elegant, more Audrey Hepburn like, and No.5, was, you know a bit more bigger in substance, and in sizes, and riper in taste as well. So they’re both different both balanced, but in their own unique way.

So, if I were to go back to the first 4 wines. The first wine, I found its strength was its amazing approachability, you open it you drink it, and you just say this is good. You know, you don’t have to think seriously about it, it’s one of the wines that you can drink easily and talk to people, have a great conversation. So that is its strength.

Wine No.2 had a wonderful restraint, and I like wines when it doesn’t tell you everything all right it’s keeping a little bit back and saying “get to know me a little better”. And I think you like me. So that was wine No.2

No.3, had a bit more forceful personality, it says you must like me. I’m great. Don’t I seem great? Don’t I have the ripeness? Don’t I have the fruit? You know, it was out there for you. You may not have liked it, because you think it’s a little bit forward, I don’t like forward people who approach me, and I don’t even know who they are, so it depends on your relationship with the wine. But it had that kind of personality.

Wine No.4 was also fruity and exuberant, outgoing, but in the finish, I think if you go back before, you see that, there is a little bit dryness, there is a little bit in the finish that tells you, you know what, I’m not ready for you. I’ not ready to talk to you today. So come back maybe, you know, in a couple of years, and we will, you know maybe we will have a good conversation then.

So that was kind of the character of the 6 wines I saw.

Jeannie对六款酒的评价：

首先我要说，六款酒各具特色。如果允许，我更喜欢酒杯是斟满了美酒的而不是空的。我很高兴来评论每一款酒的特色。最后两款（第5、6款）我认为最和谐，有着极好的单宁质感。当我盲品红葡萄酒时，我真正追寻的是单宁的品质和质感。…….对于葡萄酒来说，多酚类物质及单宁的构成就是品评葡萄酒品质的核心。最后两款酒有着更优秀的单宁，有着更和谐的结构。第五款，我觉得稍微有一点点甜，更落落大方。第六款酒更矜持内敛，更形象和具体地比喻，第六款更加优雅就像奥黛丽赫本一样；第五款骨架大，口感也更成熟。他们都十分平衡，然而各具特色。

如果我们回头看看前四款酒的话。第一款酒，它如此美妙容易接近，你打开她就可以啜饮她，就感觉很好，你完全不需要严肃地去想什么，饮用她，愉快地谈话。这就是她。

第二款酒非常内敛。我喜欢这样的酒，它并不会诉说一切，它留有一些空间，似乎在说：来多多了解了解我吧，我觉得你喜欢我。这就是2号酒。

三号酒是比较强势的、积极的，似乎在说：“你必须喜欢我！我很棒。难道我不优秀吗？我没有成熟度吗？！我没有果香吗？！你看，这就是我的全部，就在这儿等你。你可能不喜欢我，因为我有些主动。”……这就是这款酒的性格。

第四款酒也是活泼愉悦、果香十足的，非常外向。但是如果你再回过头品品，余味还是有些干的。似乎在和你说：“哦，我还没准备好，今天我还没准备好和你说话。或许，几年之后你再来找我，可能到时我们会聊的非常愉快。”